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The History of Surfing, by Matt Warshaw
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Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.
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Product details
Hardcover: 495 pages
Publisher: Chronicle Books; 1st edition (September 1, 2010)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0811856003
ISBN-13: 978-0811856003
Product Dimensions:
9.5 x 1.8 x 11 inches
Shipping Weight: 5.2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.7 out of 5 stars
77 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#78,533 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
Warshaw covers it all. It's a fascinating book, complete with sections on surfing lore, surfing legends and heroes, 'surfing philosophy' and how it influenced the sport (as well as the zeitgeist of the era, an on), types of boards, how one mode of thinking led to the next. Well done and worth the price. You can get gorgeous surfing photos -- past and present -- in a gazillion other books. This has a few, but it really is an intellectual look at a West Coast phenom. Yes, intellectual (well, as much so as possible, anyway). What I mean is that surfers are said to be shallow, narcissistic (or ego-oriented) hedonists. He says little to disavow folks of that notion, but he explains how it is that the public feels this way about those who practice the sport. Granted, today many -- if not most -- surfers probably just enjoy the athleticism, the being "in one with the waves" feeling, being out on gorgeous days, the thrill of the speed, and the exhilaration of being out there in the gorgeous water with the fish and other wildlife. But there is a mystique to it all, too, and while not exactly nailing the sensation or the "rapture" of it, Warshaw comes about as close as possible.
One amazing book... there are however some facts that are incorrect but all these books have them. It is one of the best surfing books today. Would love for this author to do a book on surfers that do not get their kudos that one day no one will even remember and its a real shame. Went to Wikapedia and the list is sad, Added some of the old guys that were amazing a lot more amazing tham a few that are mentioned over and over as they hung with the right crowd but were just not all that.... thanks love it read it all the time and will forever... a must have.
Excellent Book on the history of surfing. This is such a quality piece of work and as a surfer that started surfing in the 60's and still surfs today I'm loving this book, great journalism and photography. This is PURE Stoke!
As a 45 year surfer, this was fascinating. Some opinions expressed about surf personalities I know, I would occasionally question, but in general learned a lot about the sport I still enjoy more than any other. Thanks Matt.
Very well researched history of surfing through the years. Recommended for everyone who loves the ocean.I note that there is very little of substance written of the period from 1990 to the present. Apparently there was little development to discuss.
A great education in the sport of surfing, this is a lengthy but very interesting book. Mr. Warshaw has done some serious research into the history and put it together in a very easy to read manner. I recommend it to anyone wanting to understand the complete sport of surfing.
I read this book whilst watching the surf roll off Snapper Rocks Queensland, probably the best, all round all year surf break in the world.Matt covers the history of surfing in a concise manner and leaves us plenty of room for thought on all the little tit bits which make up thefull background. As both the art and sport of surfing is so quickly changing and is now being passed to the youngsters, this book is an essential item for the collection of every surfer. As always the big question is, Where is surfing headed next?? How and what will we be surfing in 10 years time ?
Gave this to my grandfather who revolutionized surfing in New Jersey back in the WWII era. He spent hours reading and looking at pictures and telling me about the people in the book and who he met. Thanks Matt Warshaw for letting my grandfather reunite with his past. Very humbling to see an old man be so happy
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